Clothing Quality Inspection: Secret War &Nbsp; When Can "Ming Jian"?

China is a big textile producing country, but every year it will

Take Tianjin as an example, only 10% of garment enterprises send clothing products to the national quality inspection center for quality inspection. That is to say, 90% of enterprises ignore inspection by quality inspection departments, which makes many people unbelievable after listening.

Many manufacturers only promise oral quality and safety, but there is no written proof of product safety. Such clothing products are being sent to many places for sale by many manufacturers.

Why do so many garment production enterprises evade the quality inspection of the national quality inspection department? For this reason, Tang Xiangtao, deputy director of the national clothing quality supervision and Testing Center (Tianjin) and vice president of Tianjin textile and clothing Research Institute, gave detailed answers.

Tang Xiangtao said: "assuming that a garment manufacturer will send every batch of clothing to the national quality inspection institution for testing, roughly the annual cost of inspection will be 40-50 yuan, which may be acceptable to many large factories, but for many small clothing factories, it is not a small expenditure.

In order to save this "expensive" expenditure, many small factories have to take the risk. Without clothing quality inspection, clothing will directly enter the market.

In the words of some small and medium-sized enterprises, if they are lucky, they will be safe and economical in a year. If "bad luck" is not good, they will be reported by consumers and checked by quality inspection departments to find serious hidden dangers. The state will only impose a fine of 5-10 yuan on such enterprises, which is obviously less than that of 500 thousand yuan.

"Of course, a lot of famous brand clothing enterprises will conduct clothing inspection, because after all, it is not easy to make the brand bigger and stronger. The enterprise knows that the reputation of the famous brand must be protected, and the brand must not be ashamed because of the quality problem.

It is hard to defend the rivers and mountains. "

Tang Xiangtao said with deep feeling, "but small businesses do not attach much importance to brand maintenance. They can save as much as possible."

The monitoring of clothing quality is mainly composed of self quality monitoring, compulsory sampling inspection and industrial and commercial sampling inspection.

Some shopping malls will ask to enter the brand to produce the third party test report, while other clothing trade cities and foreign trade stores have not much requirement for such third party inspection reports.

A person who has just opened an innovative clothing brand in Beijing has revealed that the most basic monitoring link in clothing quality inspection is the enterprise's "active inspection". A lot of brands that require more stringent self requirements will usually carry out the inspection of every garment, but they are also limited to the inspection by money. Moreover, not every manufacturer or every brand can do every inspection, because testing requires a lot of money, and the fund has been regarded as "sky high price" for companies that have not created much capital.

Cost reduction in many ways

The existing testing institutions in China can be roughly divided into three types: state-owned inspection institutions, private testing institutions and foreign investment inspection institutions.

From the cost point of view, the inspection fees of state-owned testing institutions are all clearly priced, pparent, and there is no discount according to the state regulations; many private testing organizations are able to reduce the cost of testing for the sake of competition. This undoubtedly brings some competition pressure to the national inspection institutions, and foreign investment inspection institutions are charged with high international certification because many foreign testing institutions are accredited internationally, which sounds more "international".

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Tang Xiangtao said that with the clothing inspection in Tianjin as an example, the cost of fabric detection for cashmere sweaters varies from 400-700 yuan. If the fabric is darker and easier to fade, the inspection cost will be higher. If the color is lighter, the inspection cost will be lower.

But the same fabric will cost 1330 yuan for quality inspection in a Japanese quality inspection agency in Tianjin, and there will be no discount.

The reason given by the Japanese agency is that their certification is recognized by the whole world that if there is any dispute in the future, this is the guarantee.

Such a high cost of detection is a deterrent to many small and medium-sized enterprises. The competition is fierce in the current market, and the price level is also a bargaining chip for enterprise competition.

In order to save quality inspection costs, many enterprises set up quality inspection departments in their factories, and equipped with quality inspectors.

Tang Xiangtao said: "every clothing enterprise's testing department only detects the quality of its own brand, but generally after the test is finished, the word" qualified product "will be tagged on the label of the clothes, which is called the" first party laboratory "in the testing link, and it is the quality of the enterprise's unilateral burden.

And after the product is produced, the link of the garment quality inspection by the receiving party is called the "second party laboratory", and the receiving party plays a supervisory role in it.

The national quality inspection department and other private inspection institutions are in the "third party laboratory" link. As an independent party's testing department, the inspection results issued by the state quality inspection department are not biased towards any party, and have the credit effect and legal effect.

In order to save costs, many enterprises have only experienced the first link of the clothing products -- the first party laboratory, and then put their products into the market. However, the quality inspection equipment and the quality of many small and medium-sized enterprises can not be compared with those of the national quality inspection institutions. The unreal results of the testing results also happen frequently. This is why many brands of clothing are frequently exposed to quality and safety problems, and even many international famous brands are also unable to escape from the French Open, which is one of the reasons for the continuous notification by the state.

According to our reporter's understanding, in garment inspection, there are basically two parts: fabric inspection and garment inspection.

Garment inspection is concerned with external quality, such as sewing and workmanship. Some of these problems can be judged by consumers when they are purchased or used.

The internal quality of fabric inspection links is a difficult point or even a blind spot for consumers to judge.

Such as fabric composition, color fastness and so on.

If the fabric is not up to standard, the manufacturer will replace it and send it again.

Such a cost will increase the cost of clothing products and bring more pressure to SMEs.

Both sides of the fast food products are in a dilemma.

At present, there are many clothing brands which are the main consumers in the market. The biggest feature of these fast wear brands is that their styles are updated quickly, and the number of garments in each category is small.

Many "fast fashion" clothing dealers promise that there are new products in the 12 quarter, and even more than a dozen or 20 new products are listed every week. If such products are sent to testing institutions, they will delay the time of new listing, and the inspection fees will also be higher because of more styles and more links to be sent to inspection.

Under such worries, many fast drying clothing products evade the link of quality inspection. Why do many famous international fast moving brands also have frequent quality events? I believe these factors are also one of the reasons.

Tang Xiangtao said: "take the national clothing quality supervision and Testing Center (Tianjin) as an example, the quality inspection fee of 500 pieces of clothing products is 10 yuan / piece, 500 to 1000 pieces of clothing products, the quality inspection fee is 15 yuan / piece, and the quality inspection department's testing time is basically 10-20 days, and the fastest is 3 days, which for many FMCG, delaying the listing will lose countless costs one day.

And if it is not directly listed through the quality inspection, even if the quality problem is detected by sampling, the amount of the fine will be relatively small compared with the number of "procrastination" lost after the quality inspection.