Senior Fashion Association Representative Zhao Qian Talks About Advanced Customization
In the 60s of last century, a fashion master like Pierre Cartan asserted that "advanced customization was dead" when Paris's advanced customization industry was sluggish. Indeed, with the change of people's lifestyle, the French advanced customization industry has been shrinking gradually compared with the garment industry. It was not until the rise of emerging countries such as China that the custom industry saw the dawn.
Reporter: what is the role of "China custom" in Paris's advanced fashion week? What kind of role does its accession play in the revival of the French high fashion industry?
Zhao Qian: French high fashion industry has always wanted to absorb all talented, promising and potential new people. "China custom" successfully landed in the Paris high fashion week. It is very important for Chinese custom designers and the whole industry to gain recognition and recognition in the world. At the same time, we also launched a "Five Year Plan" for Chinese designers in accordance with the "China custom" plan. With the implementation of the five year plan, we finally got the first Chinese designer who has the official title of "advanced customization", which will win a place and voice in the international arena for the "Chinese custom" power, and will become one of the most important forces to promote the French high fashion industry in the future.
Reporter: what kind of designer / brand is eligible to run the show in Paris fashion week? What are the thresholds?
Zhao Qian: first of all, we need to emphasize a concept, Haute Couture, which is a special term protected by law. Only the designers who have been awarded the title by the French high fashion association can become a "senior custom designer". All other practitioners can only be called custom designers. For many years, the French High Fashion Association has been committed to searching for the design force that can relay the development of high fashion in the world, and welcome every emerging market designer or new generation designer who has a design dream to join. However, funding sources and demand will become a key element. Without the support of the commercial market, the high fashion week in Paris will be difficult to maintain. Publishing only once will probably end up as a cultural phenomenon.
Reporter: Chinese designers think Paris Haute Couture Week What is the process of running shows?
Zhao Qian: for Chinese designers, first contact with France New Fashion International representative office, France, new international. If you confirm that the designer is in line with the space and potential in Paris fashion show, then recommend to the French High Fashion Association and the guild committee to confirm and assess the studio. During the meeting of members of the "high-level customization" board of directors held by the Council, two designers with official designation of advanced customization were recommended.
Paris advanced Latest fashion Week is divided into IN schedule and OFF schedule. The designers in the IN schedule are divided into "formal title" members, "invited members" and "visiting members". Generally speaking, designers who do not show up in fashion week in Paris must go through the audit and start from the OFF agenda and then enter the IN agenda.
Reporter: how many designers have the title of "advanced customization designer" at present?
Zhao Qian: the 100 year old French High Fashion Association is the sponsor of Paris fashion week and the maker of "advanced custom designation" rules. In 1945, strict criteria were set for the title of "advanced customization" at that time. In France, "advanced customization" was protected by law. At present, there are no more than 20 designers who have formal senior custom designation. Apart from the official titles, there are "invited members" and "visiting members". Before becoming the official title of "advanced customization", designers and brands need to be inspected in the capacity of "invited members". The "visiting members" refer to those brands and famous designers whose studio is not in Paris.
Reporter: before a designer was sad to put forward the idea that "advanced customization is dead". Now it seems that there is a sense of vitality.
Zhao Qian "Gao Ding is dead" is a false proposition in itself. It is an emotional expression. It is a realistic transformation of advanced customization in a conservative and self serving manner. The emergence of advanced customization is only 100 years old. Compared with the evolution history of the whole human clothing history for thousands of years, it is only a short time. There should be no choice of "survival or death". In fact, after the financial tsunami in 2008, the high-end customization at the top of Pyramid was on the contrary. The high fixed consumption group is special, compared with the ready-made clothes, it belongs to the niche market, the tourist source is relatively stable, and the purchasing power need not worry. With the rapid development of emerging economies such as China and the expansion of the number of elites, the future of the high positioned market is worth looking forward to.
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