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Interview With Huang Yuenan, General Manager Of Cool Clothing Co., Ltd.

2013/7/29 15:22:00 41

Cool Gentry Costume Huang Yuenan Menswear

General Manager of Beijing Gushen Garments Co., Ltd., master of China Agricultural University, is one of the earliest experts to study clothing mass customization in China. At the same time, he is also a senior lecturer in entrepreneurship training of the Ministry of labor and social security.

first created a tailored evaluation standard, and was widely recognized by the industry, and gained dozens of patents, copyright, certification and government awards related to it.

In 2008, the self-developed "automatic clothing selection system" won the utility model patent, and pioneered the password customization mode, and began the online custom business of the cool men's fashion business men's wear brand men's wear, providing a convenient business men's clothing custom service for high-end business men.

So far, the network has developed into the most professional and most powerful clothing customization brand with online customization technology.

below is an exclusive interview: .

Peng Liyuan enters the international line of vision by visiting the domestic custom brand in the domestic brand clothing.

reporter: first lady Peng Liyuan, dressed in the "exceptions" of domestic custom made brand clothing, has proved the quality of the domestic brand clothing to the world, which is a gospel for the custom clothing brand of cool gentry clothing.

It has been 18 years since the founding of cool gentry in 1996. In 2009, what kind of status is it in the field of costume customization? What is the development trend? What is the development trend?

Huang Yuenan: in the past two years, there are not many customized clothing brands on the Internet. In particular, the official website of clothing customization is very rare, and some of them are concentrated on Taobao Tmall.

Cool gentry has been making clothes for 18 years. The brand men's clothing has the foundation of cool gentry. My impression is that although the development of the brand men's clothing on the Internet is not very fast, the overall development trend is good, and many problems become clearer.

reporter: in the past two years, brand men's clothing has already gained some popularity in the market. In fact, some designers in China are making clothing customization, but they haven't reached the scale of this type of men's clothing.

Huang Yuenan: Yes, no one dares to play like this. We must dare to try.

reporter: I think the online sale system of clothing custom is still relatively scattered, not very climate.

Huang Yuenan: Yes, there are two extremes in this market.

I would like to talk about this industry: one is a workshop tailoring shop, such as a designer who knows the technology to do it himself, his clothing has a feature, the price is not high, and there is a high customization bespoke, the quality of the clothing is very good, but the relative price is very expensive.

In this way, you will find that the customers in the advanced customization industry do not take care of them, the price is too high, the customers can not accept it, the price is too low, the quality and the quality of the clothes are not good enough, so the custom industry should constantly explore, and the best custom clothes are the same as those in the market, the price can be accepted, the quality is very reliable, and it can keep up with the trend of the times. This is the place where I have been thinking and practicing for 18 years, and also the thing that our cool gentry clothing has been exploring.

reporter: Yes, if customers have such demand, someone has to take the lead in doing so.

Huang Yue Nan: the second advantage is that the Internet can provide many intelligent services and do not need manual services. This reduces labor costs. Third, customers do things by themselves, such as size and size. We provide customers with the "password customization" service. It saves time and effort. It is convenient for customers to work with us. We can find out the middle way. Such clothing customization has both quality assurance, high price and high cost performance, which is beneficial to consumers.

reporter: this mode is equivalent to reducing the cost of labor and store, and using intelligent services instead of manual services.

Huang Yuenan: Yes, we can use the money saved to invest in fabric, design and product services, which will benefit consumers more.

In fact, our products compare with the clothes made in the market, and the price of men's clothing is 1/2 lower than that of shopping malls.

reporter: the cost performance is very high. It can be said that the fabric of the same price is better, and the price of the same fabric is the best.

And the sense of design and quality of clothing is also good.

Huang Yuenan: Yes, I hope so.

reporter: in fact, this is also the consumer's greatest concern, spending the least money to buy the best products.

Huang Yuenan: Men's clothing has also made some progress in some aspects of clothing. One word is called tailoring. Chinese people also like to do this. They care about the size, and your fashion media also value them.

I think that the core of tailoring is not tailoring, but I think dressing is more important than volume.

reporter: consumers can measure themselves, but tailoring is hard to do.

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! --EndFragment-- > Huang Yuenan: so this matter is to be solved.

But how do we tell customers how to tailor the technology of "customized password"? At the very beginning, it was very frustrating to customers. Once again, it was inappropriate to retry and try again.

Volume is not important.

Clothing, cutting and quantity are the things that business brands need to do.

But it is not easy to tell the customer clearly about this matter. Before we were very anxious, how to solve this problem on the Internet, nearly a year, we invented the password Customization: for example, custom shirts, that is, the consumers provide us with three data, such as collar, net chest and net abdominal girth. In the database, you can match the shirt size that suits you, then you can place the order. Basically, you use the "password customization" method. More than 95% of you can find clothes that are suitable for your size. If you want to pursue perfection more, you can also change and embroider words according to the needs of consumers.

reporter: This is a more intimate service for consumers.

Huang Yuenan: practice has proved that there are not many customers who need to modify garments, 90% of them are not needed, and the repair rate is between 5% and 8%.

About 98% of our customers are satisfied with our telephone consultation.

reporter: those 2% are probably Virgo, very picky.

Huang Yuenan: before that, I thought it was a replacement rate instead of satisfaction. The refund rate of the brand men's clothing was very low. Basically, only two or three customers refunded these years.

This is the case.

reporter: such a perfect figure may be related to the positioning of men's consumption groups. Men generally pursue brand, comfort, fit and fabric, and they can accept customization more.

But for women of the highest style, it is a terrible thing to wear a crash shirt, while male consumers seldom care about it. Is the custom made by gentry clothing oriented to men's clothing also considered in this regard?

Huang Yuenan: there are also considerations in this regard. Female consumers are more particular about personalization, from variety, material to style.

There are two problems in the customization of women's clothing: one is that the female customer group is afraid of hitting the shirt, the requirement for the style is very high; the second is also very tall for the figure, and the man is relatively simple.

After all, the energy of an enterprise is limited. The mode of e-business is a new thing for cool gentry. Therefore, it is easier to select men's clothing in a relatively standardized field to test water.

Mainly based on these two considerations.

reporter: the main consumer group of the brand men's clothing is between 28 and 45 years old?

Huang Yuenan: we can not use this age to define the consumption group of the brand men's clothing. The main consumer group of the brand men's clothing is the customers who are heading for luxury, or our customers are on the road of luxury.

The age level is not a big problem in terms of customization. Young people prefer a new style of fashion and older ones.

For customized enterprises, what kind of products can be done.

I am very moved by the 56 year old customer of the brand menswear. From June last year, we began to customize the clothing on the type brand. Until now, every month, we will place the order and look at the background data. We find that these are all he made for himself, and the customer is also in good shape. It is not very difficult to get clothes in the business field.

reporter: I think the men's clothing is especially suitable for customers. Customers are satisfied with this and have high loyalty.

Huang Yuenan: Yes, and the client gave us very pertinent suggestions.

For example, there is a pocket on the clothes, he will tell us not like this, how to change, probably enjoy this kind of tailoring process.

reporter: enjoy the feeling of respectable service [customer is God].

And designer's sense of participation.

Brand men need such customers very much.

Huang Yuenan: Yes, our customers are very loyal. There are many consumers who spend twenty thousand or thirty thousand of the year.

I often tell the staff of cool gentry that we must design the most cost-effective garments to live up to the expectations of these loyal customers for cool gentry's men's wear.

We should give consumers the greatest benefits.

reporter: in recent years, brand men's clothing has also established a fixed consumer group.

Huang Yuenan: and loyal.

It may be inappropriate to change the size.

In fact, customers are very smart, they will choose the most cost-effective products.

reporter: so in this part of the consumer group there is no specific subdivision, because we belong to different levels of consumer groups, the price acceptance is not the same.

Huang Yuenan: if you have made some subdivision properly, the customized clothing of men's clothing will be lower than 50% or even more than that of the shopping malls. This is already very affordable to the consumers, and it may lose money if the price is cheaper now, and the cost will not come out.

I hope that after the development of the brand men's clothing to a certain scale, it can bring more benefits to consumers.

In fact, there are still some subdivisions in the design and layout of clothing. There are needs for individual customized consumers regardless of age.

I think that the weight and weight of clothes are not much related to body size and have a lot to do with age.

reporter: the dressing styles of different age groups are very different.

For apparel customizing enterprises, how does the brand men's clothing meet the different needs of customers in terms of their customized business?

Huang Yuenan: we divide the customer's demand for men's clothing into several levels: logo, size, version, style, fabric, style and variety, from easy to difficult, providing customers with more choices.

Nowadays, there are mainly three types of men's wear: body collection, classic and loose type, and will also be added to tighten type, because young people prefer it.

reporter: the clothes that young people pursue are very fashionable, and the styles are very tight ones.

Huang Yuenan: age stratification is mainly embodied in style and edition.

Tight style is not suitable for me at that age. Cool gentry clothing will continue to explore in the future to meet the different needs of consumers.

reporter: what are the differences between the brand men's clothing and other customized clothing brands? What do you think is the core competitiveness of the brand men's clothing?

Huang Yuenan: at this stage, saving time and effort and high cost performance is the advantage of the brand men's clothing. In terms of products, our products may have their own characteristics in terms of color and quality. But from our goal, we should regard the visual value as the core competitiveness of the brand, which is what we usually call the sense of design and fashion. We will build the core ability to satisfy the vision as a brand men's clothing.

Or to customize our eyes as our core competency.

It is our goal to make efforts to make a beautiful and exquisite garment for our customers in the aspects of fabric, style, edition and so on.

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P: --EndFragment--! Reporter: there is a lot of cooperation between men's and women's stars, but in fact, the embarrassing reality that the "advanced customization" industry is facing at this stage is that there are so many big star stars, and many famous international designers and famous Chinese designers are willing to wear their own ready-made clothes.

In addition to the "celebrity effect", has the brand men's clothing aimed at targeting the large number of non celebrity customers in the clothing custom marketing?

< a href= "//www.sjfzxm.com/pioneer/ > > Huang Yue Nan < /a >: This is not a problem.

More than brand men's clothing, and other clothing brands, some of the star's clothing is sponsored, the stars will play a demonstration role.

The type of men's clothing customers are on the luxury road of this kind of consumer group, our price system these people can afford.

reporter: type brand men's clothing belongs to the online sales mode of e-commerce, and it is the promotion system for online customization. Has it ever considered the future personalization and promotion cooperation through offline personnel, such as through the enterprise personnel, channel providers and personalized custom clothing sales agents, and so on, to expand the entire customized product promotion team?

Huang Yuenan: these methods can be considered.

I find a very good phenomenon is that our group customized salesmen, consciously pushing some type of mens personal customization, this promotion also plays a role.

But from my personal point of view, these obviously can not be used to promote sales of this mode, personal customization is a process of pulling out, to pull rather than to launch.

In the future, we may also have our own stores or cooperate with others, which are slowly exploring.

reporter: in addition to the brand men's clothing, cool gentry clothing and group business dress custom business, group customization has a lot of popularity.

Huang Yuenan: I often say that cool gentry clothing has two children: group customization and personal customization, and now it is mainly a group customized maintenance.

reporter: there are still many ways to go in the future.

As you mentioned in micro-blog, there is also a sense of advanced customization for group customization. In the market of group customization, different enterprises may take different paths.

Is Gushen going to high-end in group dress customization?

Huang Yuenan: Yes.

I divide the group customization market into four types of market segments: uniforms, work clothes, business attire and business clothes.

Cool gentry will gradually shift its business to business dress, so that group clothes are more designed and more quality.

Uniforms emphasize the strength of a kind of execution, reflect the personality of the industry, and the work clothes emphasize labor protection and service performance, that is, functional or post personality; professional clothing emphasizes the unity and identities of enterprises; business dress emphasizes fashion and taste, and embodies the individuality of employees.

Therefore, the cool gentry pack will spend more energy on the personality of the customer staff, so that the staff can get more active and make the staff prefer to wear rather than be forced to wear.

reporter: it is very difficult for every customer to be satisfied with the custom business of cool gentry group.

How did cool gentry balance this way?

Huang Yuenan: first of all, in terms of group customization, we are also developing to meet the needs of individual personality as much as possible, but because of budgetary and conceptual reasons, we are more or less constrained by the two words.

However, we can let go of personalized customization, and we can pursue individuality in various aspects such as varieties, styles, fabrics and styles.

But then again, a brand can't satisfy all individual needs.

Do something for nothing, do what you can do.

reporter: in recent years, the domestic clothing industry is facing enormous inventory pressure, such as Lining, Anta, these well-known brands have been seriously threatened by inventory.

Will there be stock pressure in the customization mode of "a href=" //www.sjfzxm.com/news/index_c.asp "men's wear > /a"?

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< --EndFragment-- > Huang Yuenan: Yes, there is stock pressure since I entered the clothing industry. Until today, it is still a problem. The reason why clothing is custom-made is that the pressure of clothing inventory is very great.

Men's clothing is mainly facing the risk of fabric inventory.

And these fabrics are very expensive. We pay high cost for these fabrics. Our designers choose fabrics from all over the world and try to make sure they are made after trial and error.

If it is not sold, the loss is relatively large.

Every fabric, every product, we have to trial production, to all aspects of the fabric is ready for stock, because we did not adopt the usual practice, customers ordered to buy Fabrics, and usually the customer how much to buy Fabrics, so although controlling the fabric inventory risk, but may bring product risk, or cause the product is too popular.

Our solution to inventory risk is: trial marketing, replenishment and sale, that is to say, improve predictability.

But still can not control the risk of 100%, the world has always been the interests and risks coexist, the test is your vision.

reporter: type men's clothing has invested a lot in fabrics, and there is a certain risk, but the quality of clothing will be more secure.

Huang Yuenan: Yes.

The clothing customization industry is not what we usually imagine. You will find that men's business clothes are custom-made in the market. They are usually black and white.

reporter: still dare not try.

Huang Yuenan: Yes, dare not try. It is known that the process of making advanced customization is the craft, the quality of the plate type craft fabric, and the fashion character will rarely be mentioned above. The brand men's clothing must go out of a different way. It's more fashionable, more personalized and more fashionable than men's custom. It's not just dull black and white ash. I hope we can do visual value.

reporter: that is to break the silence, have a certain sense of design and fashion.

Huang Yuenan: I hope this is to improve the sense of fashion and sense of vision for men's custom design.

What we say is more eye catching.

the domestic garment industry is not optimistic. Opportunities and challenges coexist.

reporter: Generally speaking, Europe and the United States are the trend vane. In South Asia, Korea is pretty good. Korea has always regarded the clothing industry as a cultural and creative industry. In the Chinese market, "made in Korea" has also become a market symbol in the clothing industry.

What do you think is the most lacking in comparison with the Korean clothing industry?

Huang Yuenan: the driving force of a brand seems at first glance to be lost to others in culture and creativity. But in fact, it is our environment. In the past, we have the advantage of labor and can be processed. There are many market opportunities, we can do real estate, do commercial real estate, the market grows too fast, there are too few commercial channels, we can only do relations and do only channels, etc., we do not need to pay attention to products, and do not need to pay attention to the value of consumers, so we can not continue to shape the brand culture that benefits consumers, making money is busy.

But this is not the case for the rest of the day. Only those companies that are interested and desirable will insist on doing the costumes because they can not make money fast.

reporter: apart from that, do you think there is a gap between domestic design sense and abroad?

Huang Yuenan: Yes, no matter Japan or South Korea or Europe and the United States, we feel inadequate in designing.

Why is Hanfeng so popular? I noticed that the whole cultural system of South Korea, the clothing industry, art and literature, it embodies a kind of refined middle class, so South Korea attaches great importance to detail and quality in design.

Italy's clothing is very good, but there are few opportunities for Chinese people to contact, but South Korea and China belong to Asia.

reporter: there are also some very good designers in China. Actually, they design very good clothes, but there is no platform to display. The original designer shop like Sanlitun BNC gives them a good opportunity to display, and consumers are also buying it.

So there is still a good platform for good clothes. First, let the consumers know and then recognize it.

Huang Yuenan: Yes, more exposure and more exposure.

reporter: before Peng Liyuan became famous overnight in domestic brand clothing, he made the domestic custom brand enter the international perspective.

Nowadays, China's clothing industry has also been in full contact with international fashion in various fields.

In the market, domestic clothing brands and international brands compete on the domestic market. This kind of comprehensive contact also has some disadvantages.

Some people say that many domestic brands are plagiarized outside designs because they are easy to sell, so what do you think of them?

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< --EndFragment-- > Huang Yuenan: I admit that there is still a certain gap between our design level and the international level. This is to be admitted.

But it is not entirely a matter of the clothing industry. It has something to do with the whole environment.

The second point is to improve the process of imitation.

Plagiarism is the original stage, is the learning stage, read the Tang poetry three hundred, but eventually will form their own original style, will have their own creative.

I am still very optimistic about this. The young people in China have more and more views, and their eyes are becoming more and more wide.

I believe it will not take long, we will have a lot of great design, not necessarily the moon in foreign countries must be round.

reporter: first of all, be confident, dare to think and dare to do.

In the past few years, Chinese consumers still have two attitudes towards Chinese original design: wait and see and question.

But in recent years, it has gradually been recognized.

Huang Yuenan: it is true that young people are more open to new things.

For fashion sense, I think there are two elements: one is the beauty, the other is the voice of the second factor. For example, Peng Liyuan's visit is a gospel for the domestic custom made clothing brand.

Peng Liyuan's personal influence is very great. Whoever has the influence will make fashion icon.

As China's position in the world is getting higher and higher, foreign countries will also start to pay attention to Chinese original clothing, and even Hanfeng and Tang Feng may become the weathervane of the fashion trend in the world.

reporter: therefore, it is said that the dress of stars can easily become the trend vane, because the influence of stars is large enough.

Great influence will naturally follow.

Huang Yuenan: Yes, for example, many of the Hollywood movies now have Chinese elements, because the Chinese market is very large.

This is a very confident era.

The main reason is that China's international status has improved, and Chinese people are more confident. The sense of brand design is also getting higher and higher.

reporter: China's rising international status is absolutely gospel for any industry.

Like these first lady Peng Liyuan's visit, the impact on Chinese clothing custom enterprises is too great, and proves the quality of domestic brand clothing to the world.

Huang Yuenan: it is good for all industries.

I think China has two luxury goods: ceramics and silk. China's silk is world-famous. The world famous Italy menswear brand Zegna, its official website publicizing is: we hope to make wool as silk, through this slogan can be seen.

Chinese silk is also a luxury in the world, just like LV is to us.

reporter: compared with the international clothing brand, the short board of design and brand makes the domestic clothing custom brand in the market in recent years seem to be somewhat hesitant.

Has the brand men's clothing been confronted with these difficulties in fashion design and brand culture? How to solve these problems?

Huang Yuenan: the brand name men's clothing is the Chinese local clothing brand. The Chinese clothing brand also has some problems, but we have begun to realize these problems. We are working hard to change our deficiencies in design. I think we will continue to make progress.

For example, the fact that we do custom tailored e-commerce shows that we are accepting new things. If we can make some progress on the Internet, then we must have changed something.

reporter: first lady Peng Liyuan, who was famous overnight after being dressed up in domestic brand clothing, soon came to the conclusion that her own brand car will become the mainstream of government procurement. All of these indicate that the local brand with quality and taste has come to the fore. For custom-made clothing, the contradiction between customization and scale has always existed. What do you think of the contradiction between customization and scale of garment industry?

Huang Yuenan: in the field of customization, you should never imagine the clothes sold in the past. There are tens of thousands of pieces of clothing sold there.

Therefore, in the field of customization, scale is a relative concept, which is relative to single operation.

If you take into account the size of the individual, you can hardly undertake large-scale orders, that is, even in the field of group customization, each product has different styles.

So instead of pursuing the scale of finished products, you can pursue the scale of elements, such as fabric, accessories, styles, templates and so on.

Popularly speaking, a fabric can be sold to more customers, that is, the scale of fabrics. The production cost can be reduced through the scale or scale of the elements. This is of course relative to the single piece operation. This needs to be based on the size of the customer, without a large customer base, and what scale of scale can not be achieved.

reporter: at present, there are many high-end clothing brands made in China, and some foreign brands are gradually entering the domestic market. What do you think of the development of garment advanced customization industry in these years?

Huang Yuenan: I think we will make progress.

If you do more people, you will have excellent brands.

The market also forces you to improve yourself. Because of cost reasons, because of the weak market, these will force enterprises to innovate, forcing enterprises to enhance the added value of products and brands.

reporter: at present, the domestic custom clothing brand really relies on creativity to achieve the height value and positioning of China is still relatively small. If China wants to pform from a big garment country to a "a href=" //www.sjfzxm.com/news/index_c.asp "dress > /a" powerful country, what do you think is most needed?

Huang Yuenan: time and toughness.

Of course, I think that macroeconomic policy also needs to be adjusted.

reporter: OK, thank Huang Huang for giving us so much. We also look forward to the "men's clothing" which can be affordable for domestic consumers. Thank you.

Huang Yuenan: Thank you for your hard work.